Xport Trunk Bike Rack Manual
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Now the rest of the disassembly. Unscrewing the piercing nut. The nut has threadlocker or sealant on it. Punching out the trigger pivot pin. It has a raised area so can only go in or out one way. Punching out the pin that retains the BB shuttle.
This is a Daisy Power Line 790. It comes with the original box, operational manual, one co2 'Jetts' cartridge, and an open box almost full of pellets. Daisy Powerline 901. A full-power rifle that shoots BBs or.177 pellets, Daisys Powerline 901 sends BBs screaming downrange at 750 fps (715 for pellets)!
It's knurled as well. The shuttle orientation. I pushed (not hammered) it out. Some old grease on the shuttle. The piercing pin. There's a seal for the body of the pin down there, hardened and sticking to the wall. It'll have to come out if (emphasis on 'if') I ever reseal it.
Xport Bicycle Rack
I carelessly unscrewed the valve. This is what comes out at first. Then these nested seals. They have mating convex and concave features. So that's it, all taken down. I doubt I'll ever work up the enthusiasm to try and get it working but if I do I have a record.
For now it goes into a ziplock bag. Hey, I have a Daisy CO2 200 Pistol that was my dads when he was a kid. After his father (my grandfather) recently passed away, we found the pistol in some of his stuff. It has been stored away for at least 20-25 years, and when I got it, the gun leaked like crazy as soon as I punctured a fresh CO2 cartridge. It would de-pressurize in about 30 seconds. I disassembled it as far as I could, then found your instructions and used then to disassemble the valve.
Most of the seals inside of the gun are made from hard plastics like nylon that really wouldn't wear out easily or harden and crack, testament to the to 'no o-ring' design, so I wasn't quite sure why it leaked. Anyway, I lubed the 'seals' up good with some lightweight silicon based grease, and then as I was re-assembling, my eye caught that '0-ring' like seal around the threaded portion of the valve that you twist into the body of the gun (with pliers) to hold all the valve parts inside. It looked dry, kinda cracked, and hard, so I lubed it up with silicon grease, and then wrapped some Teflon tape around the threads in front of that seal, making sure not to let any tape hang over and interfere with the internal workings of the valve. When I put it back together, I attached the lower portion of the gun and installed a C02 Cartridge. It still leaked slightly from the threaded portion, but after tightening the threaded 'valve retainer' another 1/2 turn, it stopped! I hadn't tightened it enough.
Now the gun holds air and I'm very pleased! Its an awesome pistol, quite powerful and extremely accurate!
The trigger pull is extremely light, and the semi-auto no cocking design is really sweet! I got about 170 rounds through it on one C02 cartridge and half of those came after the gun sat for about 7 hours! (I went to school!) Anyway, I just wanted to share this because its so easy to do, and I know there are lots of people who have these guns that leak! (They're known leakers) I have 5 different CO2 pistols, and this 40 year old design is now my favorite one because of its power, ease of use, and accuracy!
Ah okay sweet! I have a different type of piercing pin on my gun, its a one piece design where the piercing bit is actually part of the threaded 'nut' that screws into the gun.
It looks like it would be far less likely to leak. My piercing pin was originally clogged up, but I unscrewed it, cleaned it out (with carburetor cleaner lol!) and then screwed it back in, didn't even have to use Teflon tape and it seals fine. Have you gotten yours back yet?
I only got mine working last night, and I've already put about 600 rounds through it today lol! Bruce, I made a new nut that threads into the valve and surrounds the piercing pin. The nut has a flange with a recess around the pin. An o-ring fits into this depression with the piercing pin in the center. The sides support the o-ring from blowing out and leaking.
The pin pierces the cartridge and the o-ring seals against leaks. I'm pretty sure that you can substitute the nut and seal from a Daisy 1200. I'm not positive, but I think it'll work it you can't make a new nut yourself. I have seen a Daisy CO2 200 that had a seal just like that. Not sure if it was a production run change from Daisy or done later. If I had to make another, I'd consider using a Crosman 2240 valve seal. They're thin and readily available.
Anonymous said. I have the same pistol and did have the leaking when inserting the cartridge. I actually added a small piece of inner tube cut to size and that worked great.
Now a new problem after many days of working well it jammed and began losing air. I took it apart again but only got a few shots again. I have old bbs although they look new. I am wondering if they are the problem. I also suspect the trigger but not sure. Any help would be great.
Xport Trunk Bike Rack Manual Diagram
This is a great gun and I've had it since I was a kid. Two Ton Tommy.
Just stumbled across the posting on the Daisy 200. Finally got mine swending BB's down range just fine with a little TLC. I've taken and replaced the old style piercing pin with a 1200 pin, and installed it with 'red' locktite, which solved that problem. Now to solve the major leak around the rear screw-in plug which houses all the valving, it has to be removed with a little psychical force. Holding the cast assembly very gently in a padded vice, or a large friend with padded pliers, grab the 'smooth' shoulder with a small pair of 'vice-grips' (you don't want to slip here) unscrew the plug. The seal, what was left of it, has to be removed, either by pocket knife, very small screw driver, of any like instrument (mine was brittle and flaked off).
Daisy Powerline 790 Repair
This plug assy is steel, so don't worry about gouging or scratching it with only hand pressure. Now polish it as best as possible with fine steel wool. Now the trick is to get a o-ring that fits (being streched a little bit) in the recess you just polished. I got a o-ring kit from 'Harbor Freight' that had a perfect size that works just great, and seals perfectly. Now I can pick a cat off the fence with no problem. It's really fun reliving life as it was 40 years ago much to the chagrin of the local cats.Byron.
Anonymous said. Short and sweet; this blog and comments helped me bring my Daisy 200 back to life. Thanks Nick for the excellent breakdown photos! I had my pistol broken down in no time at all. You made it easy. I soaked and cleaned all the parts and seals in Ronson lighter fluid and replaced the brittle outer nylon(?) valve seal with a #7 rubber O-ring tightened down as far as it would go. I removed and cleaned the piecing needle retaining nut, but I did not remove the needle.
I reinstalled the retaining nut with Loctite Thread Locker Blue 242. Based on a comment here or elsewhere, I let the gun sit overnight. Good karma I suspect. The rightside hand grip screw also needed a twist of fine wire on its threads to tighten it up a bit better. The next day I went through two Crosman CO2 cartridges and a lot of BBs. So far I've gone through a dozen cartridges in just under two weeks and there is no sign of any leak yet!
Well worth the time and effort! I bought this pistol when I was in my teens.
Knowledge is power! Thanks all for sharing yours! Anonymous said. From Flightsimmer I have a Daisy 200 pistol and have found that the seals are fine but it sometimes leaked when inserting a new CO2 cartridge.
The cause was found to be that the elevator would stick or jam in the up position once in a while so before inserting a new CO2 cartridge I always check to see that it is in the fully down position. I would like to replace the piercing nut with one with a much better positive seal on the cartridge neck (perhaps as suggested with one from a Daisy model 2240 air pistol). Also I found that a #6 o-ring from Lowe's fits and seals the rear cap valve and works well. Once you learn the trick of reassembly it becomes much easier to do. Mine is still shooting and is in excellent shape.
Daisy Powerline 790 Parts
Anonymous said. Mark, the pin/elevator spring is hanging up on the screws that hold the sight on.
Remove those two screws (Daisy manual says only use a dime to turn these screws) hold a small towel over the top of the gun to catch the spring and pin when the mechanisms come out of the barrel. It'll take some jiggling, but it will come out. When reassembling, the pin goes into the spring. Replace the sighting screws, but only tighten enough to make a smooth surface for the elevator spring and pin to pass when reassembling. TexasPrisonChili said.
My dad just gave me his old 200. He said it leaked so I didn't even try a cart, took it apart and the seal on the valve plug literally fell apart. My plug has a 7/16' hex where you guys are grabbing roundness with pliers so I was able to use an open-end wrench. I found an O-ring at the hardware store that fit: 3/8' i.d. Put some lithium grease on it to keep it from drying, added teflon tape to the threads, oiled everything else with fishing reel oil and it works great!
Thanks for posting this how-to, it was very helpful. Hot tip if you lose your grip screws; they're exactly the same as the oval-head screws that hold the covers on household light switches and wall outlets. My 200 would shoot a few times, then you would hear air escaping from the rear quarter of the gun, and could not shoot any more, and the cartridge would empty. My first attempt: disassembled the gun per the OP's instructions, soaked everything in transmission sealer for a few days.
Reassembled, putting teflon tape on the rear threads, and it worked, for about 6 cartridges, then it progressively worsened to just shooting 1 BB, and was back to the original bad behavior. 2nd attempt, same as before, but this time I noticed the o'ring on the rear assembly (beside the threads) was very hard. I took advice from above and bought an O-ring at the hardware store that fit: 3/8' i.d.
1/16', slathered a bit of silicon grease on it, re-applied the teflon tape. So far so good! Will post again if it fails soon. I post this because it 'seemed' like the leak was more forward in the assembly, in the area above the trigger. I never looked closely at the rear o'ring because it sounded like the leak was in a different area.
Here's some of the Daisy 790 parts gun I purchased almost two-and-a-half years ago. It was in a cardboard box and priced to low to pass on. At the time, I bought it so I'd have spares for a Smith & Wesson 78G purchased ten minutes earlier. Keep in mind that the S&W 78G and 79G (.22 and.177 calibers respectively) designs were sold to Daisy in the very early 1980's. Daisy renamed them 780 and 790.
Daisy just changed the 'G' to a '0'. For the most part, the parts are all interchangeable, so simpletons that we are, we write about the guns as though they are identical.
Daisy Powerline 790 Manual
If you're new to this blog and need repair information on the Daisy guns, check the blog index for 'Smith and Wesson 78G' as Nick and I have cataloged the bulk of the work there. I had an almost mint 790 that I loaned to a neighbor for squirrel control.
He jammed a pellet in the barrel, panicked, did not tell me, then tried to 'fix' the problem by firing more pellets (no, I could not even make this up!). I finally asked him to return the airgun when he admitted he the above and said was just going to throw the gun away!! I have cleared the barrel, but discovered that he stripped the o-ring on the co2 screw cap, so all the co2 leaks out when you puncture. Does anyone know if this requires a 'special' type of o-ring (it is not the traditional black synthetic o-ring found in common applications) or if I can just substitute a regular o-ring.
I have not tried to remove the original o-ring since I did not want to cause any more damage than has already occurred. I had also given my neighbor the original box with the manuals. He threw all that away. Does anyone have the manuals that they could copy/scan and email to me? Thanking you in advance, Sandy (Outspoken1).